How to Use Chitosan-HD in Your Formulations
What Chitosan-HD Does
Chitosan-HD is a versatile, naturally derived biopolymer that works as both a conditioning agent and a film former. Think of a film former as a very thin, flexible, invisible layer that forms over hair or skin. Derived from chitin (found in crustacean shells), Chitosan-HD offers a sustainable, biodegradable alternative to synthetic polymers like PVP or some silicones while delivering excellent performance.
In hair care, its cationic (positively charged) nature gives it strong affinity for the hair shaft, allowing it to bind to the cuticle. This creates a flexible film that smooths, reduces static, controls frizz, and provides touchable hold without stiffness or flaking.
In skin care, Chitosan-HD forms a breathable, imperceptible film that provides an instant tightening and smoothing effect. It helps refine texture and reduce the look of fine lines and pores, making it ideal for serums, primers, masks, and anti-aging formats.
Formulation Tips
Crucial note: Chitosan will not dissolve in plain water. It requires an acidic environment. Adjust your water phase to pH < 6.0 (ideally 3.5–5.5) using an acid such as lactic or acetic acid before adding Chitosan-HD.
Typical usage: 0.1–2%. Use 0.1–0.5% for light conditioning in sprays and lotions, and 1–2% for noticeable hold in styling gels, mousses, and creams.
- Create a slurry by dispersing Chitosan-HD into a small amount of glycerin or propanediol to prevent clumping.
- Prepare the main water phase and acidify to pH below 6.0 (target 3.5–5.5) with lactic or acetic acid.
- Add the Chitosan-HD slurry to the acidified water phase with steady mixing; it will dissolve to a clear to light-yellow solution.
- Proceed with the rest of the formulation. Maintain final product pH ideally between 3.5 and 5.5 for continued solubility and performance.
Chitosan-HD is compatible with a wide range of water-based systems, including gels, serums, lotions, and color cosmetics where enhanced wear-time and water resistance are desired.
Key Formulation Benefits
- Flexible Hold & Frizz Control: Creates a non-stiff, touchable hold in hair styling products while smoothing the cuticle to reduce frizz and flyaways.
- Silky, Smooth Skin Feel: Leaves a breathable, non-occlusive film that provides an immediate tightening sensation and a soft, velvety finish.
- Natural & Biodegradable: Derived from renewable chitin, offering an eco-friendly alternative to synthetic polymers.
- Anti-Static & Conditioning: The cationic charge helps neutralize static and improves manageability, making it excellent for leave-ins and stylers.
- Enhanced Water Resistance: Improves film durability and wear-time in color cosmetics and boosts substantivity in sun care.
- Multi-Functional: Film former, conditioning agent, and texture enhancer in one ingredient to simplify formulations.