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Tetrahexyldecyl Ascorbate

High-Performance, Oil-Soluble Vitamin C for Advanced Brightening and Anti-Aging

INCI Name: Tetrahexyldecyl Ascorbate

Tetrahexyldecyl Ascorbate is a highly stable, oil-soluble ester of Vitamin C that offers superior skin penetration and efficacy. Unlike L-ascorbic acid, it is less prone to oxidation, making it ideal for creating stable, high-performance anti-aging and brightening formulations. It functions as a potent antioxidant, stimulates collagen synthesis for improved firmness, and visibly reduces hyperpigmentation for a more even and radiant skin tone.

Solubility Notes:

Oil-soluble; incorporate into the oil phase of formulations. Ideal for anhydrous (water-free) products.

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Perfect For These Applications

Other cosmetic uses possible—contact us for formulation guidance.

  • Anti-Aging Serums & Face Oils
    Delivers potent antioxidant and collagen-boosting benefits deep into the skin's lipid layers, making it perfect for anhydrous oils and emulsions.
  • Brightening Treatments & Spot Correctors
    Effectively targets melanin production to reduce the appearance of dark spots, sun spots, and post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation.
  • Eye Creams & Treatments
    Gently brightens the under-eye area and supports collagen production to reduce fine lines and crow's feet with excellent stability.
  • Nourishing Body Lotions & Creams
    Provides antioxidant protection and improves skin tone and texture in body care products targeting sun damage and signs of aging.
  • Lip Treatments & Balms
    Supports collagen in the lips for a fuller appearance and provides antioxidant defense against environmental stressors.
  • Sun Care & After-Sun Formulations
    Helps neutralize free radicals generated by UV exposure, working alongside sunscreens to provide comprehensive environmental protection.

Performance & Formulation Insights for Tetrahexyldecyl Ascorbate

How Tetrahexyldecyl Ascorbate Works

Tetrahexyldecyl Ascorbate (THD Ascorbate) is an oil-soluble precursor to ascorbic acid that is enzymatically converted to active Vitamin C within the skin. Its lipophilic structure enables superior penetration through the skin’s lipid barrier compared to water-soluble forms. Once absorbed, THD Ascorbate delivers triple-action benefits: it provides potent antioxidant defense against UV- and pollution-induced free radicals; supports collagen synthesis by acting as a cofactor in the formation of new collagen, improving firmness and elasticity; and inhibits tyrosinase to help reduce melanin production, visibly brightening skin and diminishing hyperpigmentation.

Formulation Guidelines for Optimal Performance

Tetrahexyldecyl Ascorbate is a clear to pale yellow, oil-like liquid that incorporates easily into the oil phase of emulsions or anhydrous systems such as serums, facial oils, and balms. For best results, add during the cool-down phase below 40°C to preserve potency. It exhibits excellent stability, especially in low- to no-water formats, and performs optimally in formulas with a final pH below 6.0. THD Ascorbate is highly compatible with a wide range of actives, including retinoids, peptides, and antioxidants like Vitamin E (tocopherol), which can help recycle and potentiate Vitamin C for enhanced protection.

Key Formulation Benefits

  • Superior Stability: Far less prone to oxidation from air, light, and heat than L-ascorbic acid, extending shelf life and maintaining efficacy.
  • Enhanced Skin Penetration: Oil-soluble, biomimetic structure enables deeper delivery through the lipid barrier for targeted performance.
  • Potent Antioxidant Protection: Neutralizes multiple reactive oxygen species to help prevent premature signs of aging.
  • Visible Brightening & Tone Correction: Helps reduce hyperpigmentation and even skin tone via tyrosinase inhibition.
  • Collagen Synthesis Support: A vital cofactor for collagen production to minimize fine lines and improve firmness.
  • Gentle & Non-Irritating: Generally well tolerated, without the low, potentially irritating pH required by pure ascorbic acid systems.
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Benefits
Anti-Aging & Anti-Wrinkle, Antioxidants, Brightening & Skin Lightening, Collagen Boosting, Dark Spot Reduction, Even Skin Tone, Wrinkle Reduction
INCI Name
Tetrahexyldecyl Ascorbate
Usage Rate
0.1%-5%
Active Type
Vitamin C Derivatives, Vitamins & Derivatives
Solubility
Oil-Soluble
Application Area
Body, Eye, Face, Lip
Physical Form
Oil
Certifications
Cruelty-Free, Vegan

Frequently Asked Questions About Tetrahexyldecyl Ascorbate

The primary advantages are its superior stability and oil-soluble nature, enabling better skin penetration and a longer product shelf life without the rapid oxidation and discoloration common with L-ascorbic acid.
The typical usage rate is 0.1% to 5%. Lower levels suit daily antioxidant support; higher levels are used for targeted brightening and anti-aging treatments.
Yes. THD Ascorbate is ideal for anhydrous formats like facial oils, serums, and balms due to its oil solubility and excellent stability.
It inhibits tyrosinase, a key enzyme in melanin production. By slowing this pathway, it helps prevent dark spot formation and supports a more even, brighter complexion.
Yes. It is generally gentle and well tolerated, and unlike L-ascorbic acid, it does not require a low pH to be effective, reducing the potential for irritation.
Absolutely. Pairing with Vitamin E (tocopherol) is recommended; Vitamin E helps recycle and potentiate Vitamin C, enhancing overall antioxidant protection.

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Tetrahexyldecyl Ascorbate

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