Performance & Formulation Insights for Stearyl Glycyrrhetinate
How Stearyl Glycyrrhetinate Works
Stearyl Glycyrrhetinate is a biomimetic active derived from the licorice plant (Glycyrrhiza glabra). Its mechanism of action centers on the inhibition of key inflammatory mediators in the skin. It helps suppress the activity of pro-inflammatory cytokines and enzymes such as phospholipase A2 and cyclooxygenase (COX), which initiate the inflammatory cascade responsible for redness, swelling, and irritation. By interrupting these pathways, Stearyl Glycyrrhetinate delivers a potent calming effect, making it highly effective for managing sensitivity triggered by environmental aggressors and chemical exfoliants. In addition, its antioxidant properties help neutralize free radicals to reduce oxidative stress.
Formulation Guidelines
Stearyl Glycyrrhetinate is a white to pale yellow crystalline powder designed for incorporation into the oil phase of cosmetic formulations. Its oil-solubility makes it ideal for anhydrous products, emulsions, and stick formats. For optimal dissolution, add it to the oil phase and heat to 75–80 °C with gentle mixing until fully dissolved. It is stable across a broad pH range and is highly compatible with silicones, esters, and many other cosmetic actives. The recommended usage rate is 0.1% to 1.0% to achieve significant soothing and anti-inflammatory effects.
Key Formulation Benefits
- Potent Anti-Inflammatory: Provides powerful soothing effects, visibly reducing signs of irritation and redness.
- Enhanced Skin Penetration: The stearyl ester improves lipophilicity for better affinity with the skin’s lipid barrier and enhanced delivery versus water-soluble counterparts.
- Antioxidant Protection: Helps neutralize free radicals to defend against environmental stressors.
- Versatile & Stable: Easy to incorporate into creams, lotions, serums, sunscreens, and color cosmetics without compromising stability.
- Excellent for Sensitive Skin: Gentle yet effective action ideal for reactive and compromised skin types.
- Brightening Support: By reducing inflammation that can trigger post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation (PIH), it supports a more even-looking skin tone.