Performance & Formulation Insights for Fermentoil Glycyrrhiza
How Fermentation Unlocks Advanced Performance
Fermentoil Glycyrrhiza leverages microbial fermentation to transform a blend of nourishing oils and Licorice Root Extract into a superior bioactive ingredient. The yeast Pseudozyma epicola metabolizes the oils, breaking down triglycerides into smaller, more readily absorbed free fatty acids and generating beneficial metabolites such as sophorolipids. This process markedly enhances the penetration of licorice’s key actives—glabridin and glycyrrhizin—into the skin. Glabridin is a potent tyrosinase inhibitor that interrupts the melanin-production pathway to reduce hyperpigmentation, while glycyrrhizin delivers strong anti-inflammatory action to calm redness and soothe irritation. The result is a faster-acting, more effective ingredient with a lighter, silkier feel than a simple oil-and-extract blend.
Formulation Guidelines and Technical Advantages
Recommended usage is 2–10%. This active is oil-soluble and should be incorporated into the oil phase of emulsions or used in anhydrous systems. For best results and to preserve heat-sensitive fermented actives, add during the cool-down phase below 40 °C. Its unique composition improves sensoriality, imparting a silky, non-greasy finish. It is highly compatible with other oil-soluble actives, including vitamin E, retinoids, and botanical lipids.
Key Formulation Benefits
- Enhanced Brightening: Fermentation increases glabridin bioavailability to reduce dark spots and promote a more even skin tone.
- Powerful Soothing Action: Glycyrrhizin provides robust anti-inflammatory benefits to calm redness and support sensitive or reactive skin.
- Improved Skin Penetration: Smaller molecules and beneficial metabolites from fermentation enable deeper, more effective delivery of actives.
- Superior Skin Feel: Delivers a lighter, silkier, and less greasy texture versus conventional carrier oils.
- Antioxidant Protection: Licorice actives and the multi-oil base help defend against environmental stressors and free radical damage.
- Barrier Support: Elevated levels of free fatty acids nourish and reinforce the skin’s lipid barrier for improved hydration and resilience.