Performance & Formulation Insights for AccessTAN 8810
Mechanism of Action: The Maillard Reaction on Skin
AccessTAN 8810 develops color through the Maillard reaction, a non-enzymatic process where reducing sugars—Dihydroxyacetone (DHA) and Erythrulose—react with free amino groups in keratin within the stratum corneum. This reaction forms brown-hued polymers called melanoidins that tint the outermost layer of dead skin cells, creating the look of a tan without UV exposure.
The strength of this blend lies in its complementary reaction kinetics. DHA acts quickly, producing initial color within 2–4 hours. Erythrulose reacts more slowly, reaching full development in 24–48 hours. Together, they create a natural-looking, longer-lasting tan that fades more evenly and minimizes orange undertones compared to DHA alone.
Formulation Guidelines for Optimal Performance
For stability and best results, formulate AccessTAN 8810 at a final pH of 3.0–4.0. At pH > 4.5, DHA can degrade, causing product discoloration and reduced tanning efficacy. Dissolve the powder fully in the water phase at room temperature and avoid prolonged heating (preferably keep < 40°C). Incorporate chelating agents to bind trace metals and enhance stability.
Avoid combining with primary amines and certain metal oxides (e.g., titanium dioxide) that can destabilize or quench tanning activity. AccessTAN 8810 is compatible with common humectants like glycerin and hyaluronic acid. Typical usage: 2–5% for a light to medium tan; 5–10% for a medium to deep tan, depending on format and application method.
Key Formulation Benefits
- Synergistic Color Development: Combines fast-acting DHA with slower Erythrulose for a deeper, more natural-looking result.
- Reduced Orange Tones: Erythrulose helps counterbalance DHA’s tendency toward orange hues for an authentic golden-brown finish.
- Longer-Lasting, Even Fade: Dual-phase development supports extended wear and a more uniform fade as skin exfoliates.
- Optimized Stability: High-purity powder blend performs consistently within an acidic pH (3.0–4.0).
- Streak-Free Finish: Balanced kinetics promote even color distribution, reducing the risk of patchiness.
- Versatile Formats: Suitable for lotions, mousses/foams, clear sprays/mists, gradual tanners, and concentrated drops.