Performance & Formulation Insights for AccessPEP MUD
How Methyl Undecenoyl Dipeptide-16 Works
AccessPEP MUD introduces a sophisticated approach to hyperpigmentation control. Unlike traditional brighteners that primarily inhibit tyrosinase, this advanced lipopeptide acts upstream by blocking the MICR (Melanocortin 1 Receptor) signaling pathway within melanocytes. This pathway is a critical trigger for melanogenesis; by intercepting the initial signal, AccessPEP MUD helps prevent the melanin synthesis cascade from initiating, resulting in a significant, visible reduction in localized pigment formation. The undecenoyl fatty acid modification confers lipophilicity, enhancing skin affinity, stability, and penetration to better reach target cells.
Formulation Guidelines for Optimal Performance
AccessPEP MUD is an oil-soluble powder ideally incorporated into the oil phase of emulsions, anhydrous systems, and facial oils. Gently heat the oil phase to 40–50°C to ensure complete dissolution. For water-based serums, use an appropriate solubilizer (e.g., polysorbates or ethoxylated esters) to achieve clarity and stability. The peptide is stable within a typical cosmetic pH range of 4.5–7.0. Recommended use level is 1–2%. It can be combined with complementary brightening agents such as Vitamin C derivatives and Niacinamide to deliver a multi-pathway strategy for even tone.
Key Formulation Benefits
- Targeted Hyperpigmentation Control: Specifically addresses age spots and post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation to promote a more even complexion.
- Upstream Mechanism of Action: Blocks the initial MICR signal, offering fundamental control of melanogenesis beyond standard tyrosinase inhibition.
- Enhanced Penetration: Lipopeptide structure improves affinity for skin lipids, aiding delivery and bioavailability.
- High Efficacy: Demonstrated performance in reducing the appearance of dark spots versus conventional brightening actives.
- Excellent for Oil-Based Formulas: Oil-soluble profile makes it easy to formulate into facial oils and oil-serums.
- Synergistic Power: Pairs well with antioxidants and other brighteners for comprehensive, high-potency pigmentation care.